Pretty much burnt to a crisp now. Some thumping waves over the last couple of days. First at Uluwatu yesterday and then Nusa Dua today. According to the swell buoys it’s 6ft at 19 (yes nineteen) seconds. A 19 second swell period is about a good as you could hope for in surfing (the longer the period the more organised and defined the waves are). Needless to say I surfed as much as possible aware of the fact that in five short days I’ll be on my jourey home to Gwithian.
Must be getting old though, my shoulders are aching and my 36 yr old skin is starting to resemble an elephants.
Always wear sunscreen kids.