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Surfing Tips

Surfboards for Beginners to Intermediates

Tyson Greenaway

When you’re fairly new to the game of surfing choosing that crucial first surfboard can be a bit of a minefield.  If you’ve had some lessons, loved it and are happy going out in the sea on your own, the time has come to invest in the hobby that will bring you joy and possibly spirit-crushing frustration in equal measure for a lifetime.

Unlike pretty much any other sport, like tennis, archery which requires a bow case, the gym or even fishing, there are no monthly/yearly fees to pay. All you need for surfing is a surfboard with a leash and a wetsuit (or just a board if you live somewhere with warm water).

The ocean is free to use, year round and the world over, mostly. Plus, it’s a constant challenge and source of fun whatever your surfing ability. That’s the beauty of surfing waves, no two sessions are ever the same!

The question is, which surfboard should you choose? I’ve covered the question of which wetsuit to buy here, but which surfboard is the best one for you to invest that hard earned cash in?

Beginner Level

You are happy in the white wash paddling and catching white water waves and can manage to stand up and surf towards the beach (some of the time).

Vision Ignite EPS Surfboard
Vision Ignite Surfboard

The board for you is a long, wide foam board or a foam board with a slick bottom. When you fall off, which you will do a lot, it won’t hurt you or others around you and it won’t do serious damage unlike a fibreglass board, which hurts a lot. For women between 7’6 to 8ft long boards are recommended. For men then 8ft to 9ft is the way to go. They each should be at least 20” wide, preferably over 22”. 

For kids, with youth, flexibility and agility on their side a board somewhere between 6ft and 7’6” long and over 20″ wide is about right.

These foam surfboards are also the most stable for you to practise your pop up in the tumultuous white water. Think of it like standing on a large, wide door or raft rather than a skinny, sinkable lolly stick. And, once you are paddling out past the white water you have progressed up a level. Hooray!

For foam surfboards (softboards) to buy click here.

Beginner – Intermediate Level

You can paddle out past the white water beyond the breakers and sit on your board competently (another learning curve).

Redback Revolution Surfboards
Redback Revolution Surfboards

You are able to paddle and catch green waves and are starting to trim along the face. The board you should look to buy is a foam top with a slick bottom. These boards have shaped rails for turning ability. Once you are able to turn right and left and start doing top and bottom turns, you have progressed up a level. Hooray!

For foam top, slick bottom surfboards click here.

Intermediate Level

You have no problem paddling out beyond the whitewater in waves up to 3-4ft and can catch green waves, trimming along and going left or right. You can eskimo roll or duck dive the surfboard.

Torq 7'6 Mod Funboard (White/Sand/Blue)
Torq 7’6 Mod Funboard (White/Sand/Blue)

Now you will need a funboard or minimal with shaped rails and hard fins for turning ability and generating speed. Once you are performing linked surfing manoeuvres then you have progressed up a level. Hooray!

For funboards or minimal surfboards click here.

Intermediate – Advanced Level

Going out in 4-5ft or bigger surf is comfortable for you. Duck diving or eskimo  rolling your board through or under the white water to get to the breaking waves is no problem. You can go right or left on a green wave. You can perform top and bottom turns and cutbacks.

Redback Quickstick 6ft Blue Softboard
Redback Quickstick 6ft Blue Softboard

You can kick out off a wave safely. The board you now need is a performance shortboard or fish. Shorter than beginner boards they range from around 5-6.6ft length. Tapered from nose to tail, shaped rails and with a certain amount of curve or rocker (for getting into hollow waves).

Shapes for these types of surfboard vary enormously and there’s been an explosion of shapes in recent years. Generally speaking, a pintail or swallowtail works well. A board with a good amount of volume to catch smaller waves and a thruster set up (3 fins) for

drive

and speed out of the turns. Some of you may argue with this, given the huge variety out there, but that’s what has always worked for me anyway.

For performance short boards, fins and board accessories click here.

Elite Advanced Level

Once you can start doing airs and all kinds of surfing manoeuvres I know nothing about, then you have surpassed most of us grovel riders out there and arrived at the elite level. Hooray! Time to get that sponsorship deal.

In summary

If you are a beginner or haven’t been surfing long then go for a foamy or foam top, slick bottom board. If you are able to surf green waves and trim along the face go for a foam top, slick bottom board, a minimal or fun board. If you can perform surf manoeuvres like cutbacks and top and bottom turns then go for a shortboard. If you can perform an air, you don’t need my advice!

The Surf Rules

Tyson Greenaway

Easter Holidays mean crowds. In the water, this can translate to crowded waves. Learn the surf rules and you won’t get into trouble. We teach people to surf. It’s a fantastic job and it’s something we love to do but here’s the downside. The more people who learn to surf, the more surfers are going to be in the water.

The maddening crowds
Locals, holidaymakers, beginners, elite surfers, bodyboarders, belly boarders, longboarders, stand up paddlers, surf skiers, kneeboarders and kayakers all floating like black blobs, gurning and scratching for waves like their lives depended on it. Crowded waves equal short tempers.

The Rules
If you’re relatively new to the sport it’s important that you understand the surfing code of conduct. Even if you’re a seasoned pro, it doesn’t do any harm to remember the rules. Handily, the National Trust have created a Surf Commandments plaque on a stone up at Godrevy car park so if you’re unsure, why not take a look while you check the waves?

10 Surf commandments at Godrevy beach
10 Commandments of Surfing Etiquette – National Trust

Rule 1. Do. Not. Drop. In. Ever.
This is the cardinal sin of surfing. Beginners often paddle and take waves without being aware there is someone else on the wave already. The one closest to the breaking part of the wave or curl HAS priority. Before you go, look left and right and look again and if there is someone on it, pull off, fall off or get out the way. Dropping in doesn’t just ruin the ride for the surfer in question, it can also cause a crash and nothing pisses an experienced surfer off more than a beginner dinging his board. No matter how apologetic you are.

Rule 2. Paddle the right way.
When paddling out to the line-up (where the other surfers are sitting) do NOT paddle in front of someone riding a wave. You must paddle behind them even if it means taking the hit of whitewater that follows. Essentially don’t get in the way of someone surfing along a wave.

The Surfers Code
The Surfers Code

Rule 3. Do. Not. Ditch. Your. Board.
When it’s crowded always keep hold of your board. Letting go of your board, especially if there is any wind, is likely to hit someone or even yourself. When paddling out, if a wall of whitewater is coming either roll with the board, duck dive or hold on to it for dear life. If someone is behind you and you let go and it hits them, well frankly you deserve to get what’s coming!

Rule 4. Don’t hog the waves.
As more and more people are using Stand Up Paddleboards, longboards and surf kayaks it means they can sit further out, stick an oar in and basically catch every little ripple that comes through. It doesn’t mean they should. Give and take, spare a few for the short boarders on the inside. You will earn respect, even if you are sat in a canoe.

Rule 5. Don’t snake people.
If a surfer paddles in front or behind another to get in a position of priority for the oncoming wave it’s called ‘Snaking’. It’s extremely annoying. (Andy Social was a snake and lord only knows what happened to him!) If you’ve been waiting for a wave for a while and then someone snakes you….Arrrghhhh! (Please, don’t do it.)

Rule 6. Be safe in the sea.
Are you safe on a surfboard? Do you know where the rip currents are? Are you aware of where the rocks are? How’s your knowledge of the beach and the tides? Do you know how to get out of a rip if you’re caught in one? If you’re in any doubt of the above then I suggest you book a lesson or surf course with our experienced Surf Instructors. Not only will they look after you and teach you to be competent in the surf, they will take you where it’s not so crowded where you can safely practise your surfing technique.

Room here for everyone
St Ives Bay is a 3-mile long beach. There really are enough waves for everyone here. If you can see it’s crowded at the popular surf spots of Godrevy or Gwithian (generally where there are cafes and parkin) have a little walk or better still hire one of our new fat bikes and head further down the beach to find a less crowded break. It may be a bit smaller but it’s better for learning and you’ll get more waves to yourself.

Ride along Gwithian beach with our new fat bikes
Ride along Gwithian beach with our new fat bikes

Learn the rules, you will be a better surfer for it and you’ll have more fun! That’s what it’s all about after all.

How to Turn a Surfboard on Whitewater Waves

Tyson Greenaway

When you feel confident catching waves and popping to your feet then you can start to think about how to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves. You should be consistently getting rides of 5 seconds or more before you consider trying this however. Also the surfboard that you should be trying your first basic turns on is a big buoyant softboard or a foam covered hard surfboard.

Beginner surfboards don’t turn on a sixpence like a some of the surfboards that you will see other more experienced surfers using so don’t expect to be performing radical tight arc turns. Instead, you should expect a beginner surfboard to respond slowly and you can use that extra time to really concentrate on your technique as well as being precise with your movements.

How to Turn a Surfboard on Whitewater Waves

Turning will be a mixture of some of the skills that you already have with a couple of new techniques. With surfing, as with a lot of sports, there is a saying – ‘where the head goes the body follows’. [themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]

This applies to all surfers from beginners to pros. At it’s most simplistic it means that wherever you look and point your arms is where you will end up.

So don’t look straight down!

Instead try to focus on the 3-5m arc of flat water in front of your surfboard.

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How to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves

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When you are riding whitewater waves you will usually have your weight evenly distributed across both feet. To start the turn bend your knees and lean back slightly to put some of your weight over your back leg. Just by getting your head in line (i.e vertically above) with you back foot you will really begin to dig the fins into the water and engage the rails of the surfboard.

At the same time you will want to look and point in the direction that you would like to go. At first keep the movement small; you really don’t need to have full body rotation to set the surfboard on a different track.

When you want to stop the turn then just rotate your shoulders back to their normal surfing position, keep your arms pointing in the direction of the surfboard and bring your weight evenly across both of your feet again.

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When you are surfing whitewater waves you don’t want to turn any more that 45º to the wave that you are surfing as this will make you very unstable.

If you need to straighten up then just do the same leaning action but look and point in the opposite direction.[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]

How to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves

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Practise going from one side to the other until you are comfortable with this new skill and can perform it consistently. See what happens when you gently lean into the turn as well. You should find that the turn is a lot sharper but don’t be surprised if you fall off a few times at first.

Remember to protect your head when you wipe-out.

Wetsuit Boot Buyers Guide – How to Choose Your Next Pair of Wetsuit Boots

Tyson Greenaway

Wetsuit boots are a necessary evil in colder climates and if you ask the surfers who use them, most have a love/hate relationship with them. In general the least neoprene that you can get away with and still be tolerably warm will usually correlate to an increase in performance with your surfing. I can’t think of anyone who would prefer to surf in a wetsuit when they can surf in boardshorts and its the same with surf booties.

With wetsuit boots the difference between a good pair and a bad pair can be like night and day. The fit and style of your wetsuit boots will have a real impact on your ability to grip to your surfboard and how warm they will be so it is worth taking the time to do a bit of research to ensure that you get the right pair for you.

To help with your research we thought we would come up with a our own….

Wetsuit Boot Buyers Guide.

We aim to cover most of things that you need when you are in the market for a new pair of wetsuit booties so read on to find out what we think you ought to know.

The Fit of the Wetsuit Boot

Wetsuit boots come in the standard size ranges (5, 6, 7 etc) but I haven’t yet seen a bootie that comes in half sizes. However because most surf boot manufacturers use different templates then a size 7 in one brand might feel like a size 8 in a rival brand. In short it is worth trying a few different brands to make sure that you get the right fit for you.

The first thing that you should know is that any pocket of air or gap between your foot and the neoprene will just fill with water. While you do want to have a layer of water in your boot any excess water will just slosh around and feel really heavy when you are popping up to your feet and surfing.

So you want a tight fit?

Yes, but not too tight!

Wetsuit boots generally have a thicker layer of rubber over the toe and heel to provide extra support and strength and if this rubber is really tightly fitted to your toe then this can cause some discomfort.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking they will ‘give’ with regular use. They won’t and you will dread wearing them after a few surfs.

The Different Types of Wetsuit Boots:

Gul Power Strapped 5mm Wetsuit Boot (sole & front)
Gul Round Toe Wetsuit Boots

 

Round Toe Wetsuit Boots

The round toe wetsuit boot is the most popular boot that you can buy. They feature a rounded end, are easy to manufacture and are therefore usually inexpensive to buy. They are generally the easiest to fit as well.

 

 

 

 

 

Gul Flexor Split Toe Wetsuit Boot
Gul Flexor Split Toe Wetsuit Boot

Split Toe Wetsuit Boots

This style of wetsuit boot is very popular with more serious surfers. The big toe is separated from the rest of the toes hence the name. They can be a bit colder than a round toe boot because when the big toe is in a separate chamber it is not quite as efficient to keep warm as when all the toes are packed together.

The difference in performance is noticeable though. Because the boot is gripping onto your big toe then your foot is not as free to move about as in the round toe boot so all of your bodies movement is more effectively transferred through your feet to your surfboard. With a round toe boot your foot tends to roll around inside them so the energy transfer from feet to surfboard is not quite as good.

Quiksilver Ignite 5mm Neo Goo Split Toe Winter Wetsuit Boots
Quiksilver Ignite 5mm Neo Goo Split Toe Winter Wetsuit Boots

Latex Dipped Wetsuit Boots

Most wetsuit boots are made from the standard double-lined neoprene – a layer of neoprene lined with a thin layer of fabric on either side.  In the last few years there has been a new material which has been gaining popularity called latex dipped neoprene. I won’t bore you with the manufacturing details but what you end up with is a very light and very flexible boot. They have the appearance of a single-lined neoprene – a layer of neoprene with only one side lined in fabric – and what they lack in durability they make up for in performance. These wetsuit boots are about as close as you can get as the feel of surfing barefoot but there have been a few question marks regarding their longevity. If you put a heavy emphasis on performance but don’t mind buying a new pair each year then these could be the boots for you.

What Thickness Wetsuit Boot Do I Need?

Most wetsuit boots are manufactured using either 3mm, 5mm or 7mm neoprene. The thicker the boot the warmer it will be. During the British summer when the sea can get up to the dizzy heights of 19˚ then boots won’t generally be required for warmth but if you suffer from cold feet or are petrified of the dreaded weaver fish sting then 3mm will be ample. The winter sea in the South West of England drops to around 8˚ and depending on how warm you like your feet to be then 3mm – 5mm wetsuit boots should be fine. If you are hardcore enough to enjoy surfing in Scotland, the East Coast of England and Northern European nations such as Norway where the water can drop to 4˚ then 5mm – 7mm wetsuit boots will be suitable for you.

Wearing Your Wetsuit Boot

When you have a good fitting wetsuit boot then peel up your wetsuit leg, put the boots on and roll the wetsuit leg back down over the wetsuit boot. This will prevent them from flushing with water, ballooning to twice their original size and getting wrenched off your feet when you do your first duck-dive.

Caring for Your Wetsuit Boots

Nothing makes the journey home from the beach slow down like a festering wetsuit boot slowly baking in the back of the van but it doesn’t need to be this way.

The trick is to take a little bit of care of them – nothing too radical, just a little rinse with cold fresh water after each surf and dry them in the shade. Doing this will help them last a little longer and prevent them from smelling like a washed up seal carcass.

Go on, do the right thing. It will make everyone feel a bit better.

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer

Tyson Greenaway

If your hiring some surfboards and wetsuits, or maybe you’ve taken the plunge and bought your own surfboard and wetsuit, then you will be facing a critical question that you will need to answer….

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer.

There are a few things that you will need to consider before you suit up and run into the surf so here are some tips on how to make the right decision and ensure that your surf session is full of successfully completed rides to the shore and tall tales to be relayed to your mates later on.

Choosing the right location and conditions.

Firstly you need to head to a lifeguarded beach. If there is no lifeguard present at the beach then find one that is, it’s not worth the risk.

Ask for the lifeguard’s recommendations of where the best waves for beginners are. The lifeguard will point you toward the surfing zone of the beach which will be demarcated by the presence of a black and white chequered flag at each end.

The sort of conditions that are ideal for learning to surf are waist-high waves with light winds. At first you will only be going out to waist depth water so if the waves are a bit bigger than waist high it shouldn’t matter too much but if the winds are stronger than 20mph you should consider coming back when the winds are lighter. That’s not to say that it’s impossible when the winds are 20-25mph but it will make it harder. If the winds are stronger than or gusting above 25mph then leave it until the wind has died down.

A lot will depend on the topography of the beach area but as a general rule rocky foreshores are a no-go and a point or bluff will usually have a current running alongside it. Keep an eye out for discoloured water and unusually calm areas of the sea as this might indicate the presence of a rip current. You should avoid rivermouths as well – even small rivers will create a trench where no waves will break and a rip can easily form.

Making sure that you surf in the right conditions now will really improve your experience and make everything so much easier.

If in doubt ask for a lifeguards advice, they will be only too glad to help.

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Surf with a Friend.

Never go surfing alone.

For obvious reasons you are far safer surfing with a friend. Keep an eye on your surfing buddy and also on other surfers. The sea can change very quickly and is totally indifferent to your wellbeing so being aware of yourself and your buddy will keep you both safe.

If you see your buddy or a fellow surfer having difficulty then first, alert the lifeguards and second – as long as you are not endangering yourself – go to their aid.[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]

 

Surf With a Buddy

[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]So why alert the lifeguards first? Because its a lot easier to rescue one person than two.

About the lineup – where to go, how to get there, how far out should you go, where are the waves breaking?

So you’re at a safe beach, the conditions are good and you’re itching to get in.

At this point it’s time to take a few moments and look at the line-up. Make a mental note of where the waves are breaking, how often and how far out. For your first couple of surfs you should only be walking out to your waist depth but it’s still worth surveying the line up to leave nothing to chance.

Which wave to go for?

If you have consulted the lifeguard, surveyed the conditions carefully for ten minutes or so and are comfortable with the conditions then you are ready to put your leash on and head into the water.

At this stage any whitewater wave that is breaking in your waist depth of water will be absolutely fine. Literally any of them – don’t overthink it, just go!

The key thing is not to go beyond your depth and, when not standing on your surfboard, always remain with your feet in contact with the seabed.

After your surf?

So you’ve had a good surf and caught loads of waves… well done.

Afterwards make a few mental notes about the conditions. Which type of wave was powerful, which was too weak to surf on, why did some waves double up and other fizzle out to nothing? Use these mental notes to help you choose good waves in the future.

Then do it all again for your next surf.

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Gwithian Academy of Surfing,
1, Godrevy Towans,
Gwithian,
Hayle,
Cornwall.
TR27 5ED.
Tel: 01736 757579

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