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Surfing Tips

Simple Ways to Improve Balance for Surfing

Tyson Greenaway

A surfer enjoying himself using equipment hired from GAS Surf School Cornwall

Actually a better way to put it would be….

Can I Improve Balance for Surfing.

And the answer is yes. Many people think that balance is one of those things that you either have or you don’t. How many times have you heard that someone has ‘natural balance’?

I heard it just this morning and, once upon a time, people might occasionally say it about me, but in reality it all comes down to practice.

You probably will have heard the 10,000 hour rule that is often attributed to Malcolm Gladwell that suggests there is no such thing as a ‘natural’ at anything and once examined most ‘natural athletes’ have roughly 10,000 hours of practice behind them.

The same theory applies to any physical activity and while most of us won’t be able to spare the 10,000 hours to master a technique, every little helps if you want to improve balance for surfing.

Any exercise that increases your core strength will have a positive effect on your overall fitness and your balance.

So where do you begin? Well…….

Start with a Single Leg Balance.

A single leg balance will help you work on strengthening your lower body and improving overall balance.

  • Stand, keeping your feet hip-width apart, and distribute your weight equally between both legs. Shift your weight to the right and lift your left foot off the floor. Hold this position as long as you can, aiming for around 30 seconds.
  • Place your hands on your hips, lift your left leg to the side, and bend your leg back at the knee. Hold this for 30 seconds and then return to the starting position.
  • Repeat on the other side. Do three reps on each side and either increase the reps or the time as you feel more comfortable.

Too easy? Try it with your eyes closed.

Single Leg Balance with Ball Toss

Do exactly the same as above but either:

  • throw a tennis ball up in the air and catch it
  • or throw a tennis ball against a wall and catch it

Keep your eyes open at all times for this one!

Exercises to Increase your Core Strength and Balance

I can sense your eyes are going to glaze over when I mention press ups and sit ups but the following program was suggested to me by Vicky Church from VFit. She is a Muay Thai World Champion who knows a thing or two about fitness and balance (as well as kicking people in the head), so when she talks I listen. I have done this myself every other day as part of my recovery from an appendix op but it’s also great to do to keep your core ticking over when we have a flat spell.

Try this cycle (you can see examples of these press ups at builtlean.com):

  • 10 wide press ups (arms straight out from shoulders, elbows at 90°)
  • 10 diamond press ups (both hands make the shape of a diamond)
  • 10 staggered press ups (one arm higher than the other – 5 on each side)
  • 10 tricep press ups (arms tucked in, touching your sides)
  • 10 sit ups

Try a couple of reps of the cycle to start with. Each cycle won’t actually take up too much of your time, probably between 2-5 minutes each depending on fitness, but the benefits are staggering. Well worth it.

To start with it may appear that these press ups are only working your arms and shoulders but by the 80th one you’ll be feeling it in your core too – especially if you keep your back straight throughout!

If you find this easy incorporate a swiss ball into the exercises.

Now Get Cracking!

Core strength and balance go hand in hand together – unfortunately you can’t have one without the other but I promise you that if you do this you will see a noticeable improvement in your balance in a week or two. All of the exercises can be performed without any props other than a tennis ball or a swiss ball, they just need a bit of time and commitment.

I hope this has given you a few ideas to be getting in along with. Let me know how you are doing in the comments section below.

How To Protect Your Head When Surfing

Tyson Greenaway

If you’ve ever come along for a surf lesson with us you’ll know we are pretty anal when it comes to safety. We see a lot of people glaze over when we start talking about safety but it’s a necessary evil.

But you must protect your head when you are surfing.

On your first lesson with us you will hear us talk about how to protect your head when you wipeout several times. In fact we mention it within the first five minutes of the lesson, before you’ve even got your toes wet, then reinforce it at least a further three times before the lesson is finished.

It’s one of the basics of surf coaching and it’s why we have a great record with safety at the surf school.

So how do you protect your head when you wipeout?

You put one arm over the top of your head and wrap your other arm around the back of your head and neck – simple, but the most effective way of protecting your self from your own or other people surfboards when you are in the water.

So far so good.

Except the other day I just didn’t do it. I guess I just got a bit blasé with the whole thing. The surf was fun, the sun was out and I didn’t have a care in the world.

I caught a wave: nothing special, not very big, nothing to worry about.

And then……

Whack!

Underwater I felt my surfboard belt me right across the crown of my head. I surfaced, pulled my wetsuit hood down and something strange happened.

Everything went red.

Now one of the things about getting a cut in the sea is that it always looks worse than it is. Blood just runs everywhere and it looks really gory but actually it’s only a tiny amount of blood.

This time it looked like there was gallons of the stuff. A mate of mine, Jake, paddled over. Now Jake is prone to understatement so when he said ‘I’m taking you to hospital’ I knew it was a good idea.

A short while later and I had seven stitches in my head and was facing the prospect of at least a week out of the sea.

And all because I didn’t take the advice that is dished out in every single lesson we do.

But I’ve actually learnt three lessons this week.

One: protect your head on every wipeout, no matter how innocuous. You’d be an idiot not to.

Two: always surf with a buddy. If I was surfing on my own then I could have been in some serious trouble.

Three: there are a lot of surfers working in the NHS. At least three doctors and one nurse popped their heads around the curtain of my booth and asked me where I had been surfing, what tide was best and how well it handles a South-Westerly gale!

How to improve your surfing – the easiest way (probably)!

Tyson Greenaway

Well, I say ‘easiest way’. It kind of is.

It just requires hours of time, patience, petrol and cash.

Y’see I could give you thousands of tips on how to stand on your surfboard, catch waves and improve your technique and they would all help to a greater or lesser degree.

But what’s the best way to improve your surfing?

In a word – travel.

And I write this from the balcony of a rental apartment in the south of France so you can’t deny that I don’t practise what I preach!

Put simply, just get out and surf somewhere different.

You don’t have to throw yourself into some below sea-level grinders in Hawaii or Tahiti; you will improve your surfing just as much in the beach breaks of the USA and Europe.

And if you’re not lucky enough or have too many responsibilities to get the time to spend a couple of weeks or months surveying a pristine surf break from your hammock while a waiter hands you a post-surf mojito then all is not lost.

In fact you don’t even need to leave the country. Why not try the beach break just around the corner from your local surf spot or the point an hour up the road?

The key thing is to sample new waves and learn how to react to them. It doesn’t matter if you’ve only just started cutting across the green waves, you’re a seasoned pro or a whitewater warrior: nothing will help you to improve your surfing like stepping out of your comfort zone and surfing a different wave.

Even whitewater waves offer new challenges at a different surf spot and will require new skills and techniques to overcome them.

So next time you load your surfboard and wetsuit into the car and hit the road, try somewhere different – it’s the best, and most enjoyable, way to improve your surfing.

And if you do go abroad and still have a rubbish surf?

That mojito will still taste good.

 

 

The Bay of Plenty (part 2 of a 2-part guide to surfing in St Ives Bay)

Tyson Greenaway

The Bay of Plenty

St Ives Bay offers loads of options for the surfer. If one spot’s not working there’s a fair chance another one will be (and failing that, we’re lucky enough to have the south coast only 20 mins away). Allow us to take you on a quick tour of St Ives Bay’s surfing terrain…


Godrevy

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Godgers
[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]99% of the time Godrevy has the most swell in the Bay, but, for reasons covered in last week’s surf tip (about swell direction), not always…and quite often not as much as beaches further up the coast. It’s a pretty regular North Coast beach-break; very often do-able and occasionally pretty darn good.

Red River snakes over it with ever changing implications, keeping the sand-bars on their toes – not to mention creating a handy channel for high-tide paddle-outs.[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]

Generally rights will be better than lefts, with the waves tending to be fairly slow and almondy, especially at higher tides (the other side of this coin being the potential for some really long rides).

While there’s usually plenty of space at low tide, things can get a bit cramped as the water moves in and around the rocks/cliffs. Another drawback on really high tides is the pebbles, which make wiping out in the shore-break hazardous for board and body!


 

Gwithian

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”][/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]Heading SW down the beach towards Hayle, somewhere around Gillick Rock Godrevy becomes Gwithian and the waves will generally start to get a little smaller.

Gillack Rock itself can be a blessing or a curse. On the one hand, interesting sandbars will occasionally form around it, kinda like they might build up around a groin. This can improve the way waves break at high tide. And when it’s covered by enough water, with the swell in the region of 2-4ft, it becomes one of the shortest reef-breaks known to man (a.k.a. Suck Rock), providing the opportunity to practice late drops and very little else (apart from pumping/weaving like crazy through the ensuing dead-section in a bid to make it to the shore-break).[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns][themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]

[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]But beware! At 1/2 to 3/4 tide the area around Gillack Rock can be rife with rip-currents, while the barnacle encrusted rock itself has been known to take some skin of the odd hapless surfer!

One of the most popular spots to surf in the area is a specific part of Gwithian Beach known as Sheep Dip (yes they used to wash sheep there – in a pool just below the lifeguard hut). And it’s not because it’s the closest part of the beach to the large car-park! The reason the waves tend to break slightly better here is due to a patch of offshore rocks (of which Bessack Rock is the only one that breaks the surface) which cause the waves to refract into themselves, creating ‘A-frame’ peaks which have been known to peel very nicely indeed (especially the lefts). Sheep Dip is best at mid-tide, with low tide often very rippy (all aboard the Bessack express!!!) and high-tide a non-starter due to the rocks.
[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


Peter’s Point

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Site[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]Named after a dog who loved bounding around the dunes here – and is buried on the cliff-top – Peter’s Point is located about ¾ of a mile down the beach from the main car-park at Gwithian. And yes we agree that is a weird name for a dog! Peter’s Point is the stretch of beach between Mussel Rock and Site (no prizes for guessing what can be found on Mussel Rock – some of the best mussels in Cornwall, but only accessible on Spring Low Tides or in a wetsuit). To be honest, in terms of surf quality, this is the worst section of beach in the Bay, with the waves generally really gutless and tending to close out. But it never gets crowded so if you’re just learning the basics then it’s not a bad option. And as the picture testifies, it does have its moments![/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


Site/Mexico

The stretch of beach in front of St Ives Bay and Beachside holiday parks. This is a good spot to head for if Gwithian/Godrevy is too big and/or too messy because of some west creeping into the wind. Generally better rights than lefts…and usually best at mid to three-quarter tide.


Hayle Rivermouth

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Rivermouth[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]People head to Rivermouth at low tide to get barrelled – and not necessarily make it out again. And while it packs a punch at low-tide (due to the river carving out a trench which preserves wave energy), high tide is a different story, with waves tending to wobble in without much power or organisation (although you do sometimes find some decent rights peeling into the river).[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


Hawke’s Point

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Hawkes[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]If the swell’s massive and the wind from the S or SW you might be lucky enough to catch firing Hawke’s Point. At high tide waves bounce back off the cliff and into the next one, causing a super-fun left-hand ‘wedge’ that adds extra height and power to the waves. The super-easy, dry hair paddle out off the rocks is an added bonus (so long as you time it right), although getting back in again isn’t so much fun. Getting in/out is more straight-forward at lower tides, when the wedge disappears and right-handers take precedence.[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


Carbis Bay

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Carbis[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]Tucked away as it is, Carbis Bay only has waves when the swell is either MASSIVE (i.e. big enough to wrap pretty much 180 degrees) or of the short-range northerly variety. In either case Carbis Bay can offer fun, punchy waves at high-tide or mellower, longer rides at lower tides.[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


St Ives Breakwater

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]BreakwaterByGregMartinPhoto by top banana Greg Martin

[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]As with Carbis Bay, Breakwater can be surfable in a northerly windswell; but proper Breakwater, which is the stuff of legend, only breaks once in a blue moon during monster swells. When it does work it offers 100 meter long, freight-train lefts, wrapping from Porthgwidden Beach all the way around to the harbour entrance. But when it’s on it’s usually the only place in a large area that’s surfable, and therefore gets very crowded.[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]


Porthmeor

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]Meor[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]Sitting below the Tate Gallery, Porthmeor is a semi-sheltered beach that offers good protection from S, SW and, to a lesser extent, W winds. It’s therefore a good spot to check when things start to get a bit sizey/stormy. As with much of the bay, rights tend to be better than lefts. And the further towards the western end of the beach you go the punchier the waves are. Oh yeah and for reasons unknown, Porthmeor breaks better on an outgoing tide. But… being a small-ish beach next to a large town (by Cornish standards) it does tend to get crowded. Although more exposed, with waves therefore usually more ragged, Site/Mexico, back over on the other side of Hayle River, is often, on balance, a better option.[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]

Know The Bay: Swell Direction (Part 1 of a 2-part Guide to Surfing in St Ives Bay)

Tyson Greenaway

On the west coast of France, between the mouth of the Gironde to the west of Bordeux, and down there at the world famous Hossegor to the south, there’s roughly 100 miles of beach, separated only by the odd groin and a few river mouths. True story.

And on a good day you know, you JUST KNOW, there’s pumping waves peeling down a secret sandbar (or two) NOT BEING SURFED; Or maybe surfed by a couple of peeps. Peeps in the know, peeps with some LOCAL KNOWLEDGE.

If you’ve got plenty of time on your hands and a healthy petrol budget, exploring 100 miles of coast in a bid to find your own perfect sand-bar might be an enjoyable way to spend a day, especially if you end up scoring. But if you just wanna surf (like now) it could be tedious!

looking

Some lessons, like how to ride a bike, or the holy sanctum that is the tube, have to be learnt in the first person (advice and encouragement notwithstanding). Other lessons meanwhile, like where the rip-tides/sharks are, or which parts of town to avoid at night, are best learned from someone else!

Exploring and making your own discoveries is wonderful and all part of life’s rich tapestry. But if learning lessons the hard way involves wasting valuable time, throwing money down the drain or putting yourself harm’s way, well, that’s when you maybe shoulda sought some advice from someone in the know!

While we can’t help you find one of those elusive French sandbars, we are able to provide you with a bunch of info relating to surfing St Ives Bay that might just help you out…


 

On some days Godrevy (the most exposed area of beach in St Ives Bay) has more swell than anywhere else. But more commonly it will be smaller than other exposed spots along the north coast (Gwynver, Porthtowan, Chapel Porth, etc.).

Why is this?

Well, St Ives Bay is somewhat sheltered from swells of a direction more southerly than WNW. Which means SW or WSW swells can light up other spots along the north coast whilst barely registering at Gwithian/Godrevy.
WSW-swell

But northerly swells are a different matter…

With northerly groundswells (i.e. those generated way up in the North Atlantic, maybe near Greenland or Iceland) the further east along the coast you go, up towards North Devon, the more they’ll have to refract (bend) around Ireland to make it to shore. So you’re better off down our way.
N-swell

Shorter-range northerly swells, generated in the Irish Sea, have a better fetch the further west along the coast you are (fetch being the distance of sea over which wind is able to blow in order to create swell). So again St Ives Bay catches these more than anywhere else (and it’s worth noting that within the bay itself a straight northerly or even NE windswell will probably be biggest at the usually quiet, north-facing Carbis Bay, but more on those little idiosyncrasies next week).
N-wind-swell

So, to summarise, swells from the SW quadrant will struggle to get into St Ives Bay, meaning you’re probably better off either up the coast or on the south coast, whereas more northerly swells, be they long or short distance, will get into St Ives Bay more than anywhere else in the whole of SW. The various surf-forecasting sites out there account for the above factors with varying degrees of accuracy, so application of local knowledge is advantageous!

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Gwithian,
Hayle,
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TR27 5ED.
Tel: 01736 757579

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