Catching un-broken or ‘green waves’ can be the biggest hurdle to overcome for the progressing surfer. It relies on a number of different factors such as fitness, confidence and the surf conditions on the day.
The ideal conditions would be a small clean swell with light offshore winds such as in this video clip. Smaller waves are easier to catch as they are not travelling as fast as larger waves and appear less daunting. Check out the video and then read on.
This where you will have to rely on your judgement. Take a few minutes before your surf to analyse the conditions from the beach and where the waves tend to break. When you think you know where the best spot to sit is then paddle out.
Try to triangulate your position with any landmarks on the beach and cliffs. Remember that this position will change as the tide comes in so you will have to keep reassessing your position from the line-up as the session continues.
Catching the Wave
When you see an appropriate wave, spin your board around to face the beach. Slowly begin to paddle building momentum as you go (18 seconds). As the wave approaches take a moment to see which way the wave is breaking and decide which direction you want to head (25 seconds). Just before the wave picks the up the board angle the nose of the surfboard in the direction you wish to travel (28 seconds). It’s really important to look in the direction that you want to travel and not down at your hands, feet or water.
Once you feel the wave underneath add one or two strong strokes and pop up to your feet in the normal way. Once up, stay compressed and keep looking forward, bring your arms up to help direct and give you balance (38 seconds). As the board starts to drop down the face of the wave stay compressed and look and point your arms in the direction you want to head. By doing this a small amount of pressure will be added to the inside rail and the board will start to turn. Once the board is trimming along the wave bring your arms back over the board and remain in a central compressed position.
There’s a lot to consider when catching unbroken waves so if you need any more help then call 01736 757579 and we can book you in for some coaching.