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You are here: Home / Tips & Info

Tips & Info

How to Turn a Surfboard on Whitewater Waves

Tyson Greenaway

When you feel confident catching waves and popping to your feet then you can start to think about how to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves. You should be consistently getting rides of 5 seconds or more before you consider trying this however. Also the surfboard that you should be trying your first basic turns on is a big buoyant softboard or a foam covered hard surfboard.

Beginner surfboards don’t turn on a sixpence like a some of the surfboards that you will see other more experienced surfers using so don’t expect to be performing radical tight arc turns. Instead, you should expect a beginner surfboard to respond slowly and you can use that extra time to really concentrate on your technique as well as being precise with your movements.

How to Turn a Surfboard on Whitewater Waves

Turning will be a mixture of some of the skills that you already have with a couple of new techniques. With surfing, as with a lot of sports, there is a saying – ‘where the head goes the body follows’. [themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]

This applies to all surfers from beginners to pros. At it’s most simplistic it means that wherever you look and point your arms is where you will end up.

So don’t look straight down!

Instead try to focus on the 3-5m arc of flat water in front of your surfboard.

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How to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves

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When you are riding whitewater waves you will usually have your weight evenly distributed across both feet. To start the turn bend your knees and lean back slightly to put some of your weight over your back leg. Just by getting your head in line (i.e vertically above) with you back foot you will really begin to dig the fins into the water and engage the rails of the surfboard.

At the same time you will want to look and point in the direction that you would like to go. At first keep the movement small; you really don’t need to have full body rotation to set the surfboard on a different track.

When you want to stop the turn then just rotate your shoulders back to their normal surfing position, keep your arms pointing in the direction of the surfboard and bring your weight evenly across both of your feet again.

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When you are surfing whitewater waves you don’t want to turn any more that 45º to the wave that you are surfing as this will make you very unstable.

If you need to straighten up then just do the same leaning action but look and point in the opposite direction.[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]

How to turn a surfboard on whitewater waves

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Practise going from one side to the other until you are comfortable with this new skill and can perform it consistently. See what happens when you gently lean into the turn as well. You should find that the turn is a lot sharper but don’t be surprised if you fall off a few times at first.

Remember to protect your head when you wipe-out.

Wetsuit Boot Buyers Guide – How to Choose Your Next Pair of Wetsuit Boots

Tyson Greenaway

Wetsuit boots are a necessary evil in colder climates and if you ask the surfers who use them, most have a love/hate relationship with them. In general the least neoprene that you can get away with and still be tolerably warm will usually correlate to an increase in performance with your surfing. I can’t think of anyone who would prefer to surf in a wetsuit when they can surf in boardshorts and its the same with surf booties.

With wetsuit boots the difference between a good pair and a bad pair can be like night and day. The fit and style of your wetsuit boots will have a real impact on your ability to grip to your surfboard and how warm they will be so it is worth taking the time to do a bit of research to ensure that you get the right pair for you.

To help with your research we thought we would come up with a our own….

Wetsuit Boot Buyers Guide.

We aim to cover most of things that you need when you are in the market for a new pair of wetsuit booties so read on to find out what we think you ought to know.

The Fit of the Wetsuit Boot

Wetsuit boots come in the standard size ranges (5, 6, 7 etc) but I haven’t yet seen a bootie that comes in half sizes. However because most surf boot manufacturers use different templates then a size 7 in one brand might feel like a size 8 in a rival brand. In short it is worth trying a few different brands to make sure that you get the right fit for you.

The first thing that you should know is that any pocket of air or gap between your foot and the neoprene will just fill with water. While you do want to have a layer of water in your boot any excess water will just slosh around and feel really heavy when you are popping up to your feet and surfing.

So you want a tight fit?

Yes, but not too tight!

Wetsuit boots generally have a thicker layer of rubber over the toe and heel to provide extra support and strength and if this rubber is really tightly fitted to your toe then this can cause some discomfort.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking they will ‘give’ with regular use. They won’t and you will dread wearing them after a few surfs.

The Different Types of Wetsuit Boots:

Gul Power Strapped 5mm Wetsuit Boot (sole & front)
Gul Round Toe Wetsuit Boots

 

Round Toe Wetsuit Boots

The round toe wetsuit boot is the most popular boot that you can buy. They feature a rounded end, are easy to manufacture and are therefore usually inexpensive to buy. They are generally the easiest to fit as well.

 

 

 

 

 

Gul Flexor Split Toe Wetsuit Boot
Gul Flexor Split Toe Wetsuit Boot

Split Toe Wetsuit Boots

This style of wetsuit boot is very popular with more serious surfers. The big toe is separated from the rest of the toes hence the name. They can be a bit colder than a round toe boot because when the big toe is in a separate chamber it is not quite as efficient to keep warm as when all the toes are packed together.

The difference in performance is noticeable though. Because the boot is gripping onto your big toe then your foot is not as free to move about as in the round toe boot so all of your bodies movement is more effectively transferred through your feet to your surfboard. With a round toe boot your foot tends to roll around inside them so the energy transfer from feet to surfboard is not quite as good.

Quiksilver Ignite 5mm Neo Goo Split Toe Winter Wetsuit Boots
Quiksilver Ignite 5mm Neo Goo Split Toe Winter Wetsuit Boots

Latex Dipped Wetsuit Boots

Most wetsuit boots are made from the standard double-lined neoprene – a layer of neoprene lined with a thin layer of fabric on either side.  In the last few years there has been a new material which has been gaining popularity called latex dipped neoprene. I won’t bore you with the manufacturing details but what you end up with is a very light and very flexible boot. They have the appearance of a single-lined neoprene – a layer of neoprene with only one side lined in fabric – and what they lack in durability they make up for in performance. These wetsuit boots are about as close as you can get as the feel of surfing barefoot but there have been a few question marks regarding their longevity. If you put a heavy emphasis on performance but don’t mind buying a new pair each year then these could be the boots for you.

What Thickness Wetsuit Boot Do I Need?

Most wetsuit boots are manufactured using either 3mm, 5mm or 7mm neoprene. The thicker the boot the warmer it will be. During the British summer when the sea can get up to the dizzy heights of 19˚ then boots won’t generally be required for warmth but if you suffer from cold feet or are petrified of the dreaded weaver fish sting then 3mm will be ample. The winter sea in the South West of England drops to around 8˚ and depending on how warm you like your feet to be then 3mm – 5mm wetsuit boots should be fine. If you are hardcore enough to enjoy surfing in Scotland, the East Coast of England and Northern European nations such as Norway where the water can drop to 4˚ then 5mm – 7mm wetsuit boots will be suitable for you.

Wearing Your Wetsuit Boot

When you have a good fitting wetsuit boot then peel up your wetsuit leg, put the boots on and roll the wetsuit leg back down over the wetsuit boot. This will prevent them from flushing with water, ballooning to twice their original size and getting wrenched off your feet when you do your first duck-dive.

Caring for Your Wetsuit Boots

Nothing makes the journey home from the beach slow down like a festering wetsuit boot slowly baking in the back of the van but it doesn’t need to be this way.

The trick is to take a little bit of care of them – nothing too radical, just a little rinse with cold fresh water after each surf and dry them in the shade. Doing this will help them last a little longer and prevent them from smelling like a washed up seal carcass.

Go on, do the right thing. It will make everyone feel a bit better.

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer

Tyson Greenaway

If your hiring some surfboards and wetsuits, or maybe you’ve taken the plunge and bought your own surfboard and wetsuit, then you will be facing a critical question that you will need to answer….

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer.

There are a few things that you will need to consider before you suit up and run into the surf so here are some tips on how to make the right decision and ensure that your surf session is full of successfully completed rides to the shore and tall tales to be relayed to your mates later on.

Choosing the right location and conditions.

Firstly you need to head to a lifeguarded beach. If there is no lifeguard present at the beach then find one that is, it’s not worth the risk.

Ask for the lifeguard’s recommendations of where the best waves for beginners are. The lifeguard will point you toward the surfing zone of the beach which will be demarcated by the presence of a black and white chequered flag at each end.

The sort of conditions that are ideal for learning to surf are waist-high waves with light winds. At first you will only be going out to waist depth water so if the waves are a bit bigger than waist high it shouldn’t matter too much but if the winds are stronger than 20mph you should consider coming back when the winds are lighter. That’s not to say that it’s impossible when the winds are 20-25mph but it will make it harder. If the winds are stronger than or gusting above 25mph then leave it until the wind has died down.

A lot will depend on the topography of the beach area but as a general rule rocky foreshores are a no-go and a point or bluff will usually have a current running alongside it. Keep an eye out for discoloured water and unusually calm areas of the sea as this might indicate the presence of a rip current. You should avoid rivermouths as well – even small rivers will create a trench where no waves will break and a rip can easily form.

Making sure that you surf in the right conditions now will really improve your experience and make everything so much easier.

If in doubt ask for a lifeguards advice, they will be only too glad to help.

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Surf with a Friend.

Never go surfing alone.

For obvious reasons you are far safer surfing with a friend. Keep an eye on your surfing buddy and also on other surfers. The sea can change very quickly and is totally indifferent to your wellbeing so being aware of yourself and your buddy will keep you both safe.

If you see your buddy or a fellow surfer having difficulty then first, alert the lifeguards and second – as long as you are not endangering yourself – go to their aid.[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]

 

Surf With a Buddy

[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]So why alert the lifeguards first? Because its a lot easier to rescue one person than two.

About the lineup – where to go, how to get there, how far out should you go, where are the waves breaking?

So you’re at a safe beach, the conditions are good and you’re itching to get in.

At this point it’s time to take a few moments and look at the line-up. Make a mental note of where the waves are breaking, how often and how far out. For your first couple of surfs you should only be walking out to your waist depth but it’s still worth surveying the line up to leave nothing to chance.

Which wave to go for?

If you have consulted the lifeguard, surveyed the conditions carefully for ten minutes or so and are comfortable with the conditions then you are ready to put your leash on and head into the water.

At this stage any whitewater wave that is breaking in your waist depth of water will be absolutely fine. Literally any of them – don’t overthink it, just go!

The key thing is not to go beyond your depth and, when not standing on your surfboard, always remain with your feet in contact with the seabed.

After your surf?

So you’ve had a good surf and caught loads of waves… well done.

Afterwards make a few mental notes about the conditions. Which type of wave was powerful, which was too weak to surf on, why did some waves double up and other fizzle out to nothing? Use these mental notes to help you choose good waves in the future.

Then do it all again for your next surf.

Simple Ways to Improve Balance for Surfing

Tyson Greenaway

A surfer enjoying himself using equipment hired from GAS Surf School Cornwall

Actually a better way to put it would be….

Can I Improve Balance for Surfing.

And the answer is yes. Many people think that balance is one of those things that you either have or you don’t. How many times have you heard that someone has ‘natural balance’?

I heard it just this morning and, once upon a time, people might occasionally say it about me, but in reality it all comes down to practice.

You probably will have heard the 10,000 hour rule that is often attributed to Malcolm Gladwell that suggests there is no such thing as a ‘natural’ at anything and once examined most ‘natural athletes’ have roughly 10,000 hours of practice behind them.

The same theory applies to any physical activity and while most of us won’t be able to spare the 10,000 hours to master a technique, every little helps if you want to improve balance for surfing.

Any exercise that increases your core strength will have a positive effect on your overall fitness and your balance.

So where do you begin? Well…….

Start with a Single Leg Balance.

A single leg balance will help you work on strengthening your lower body and improving overall balance.

  • Stand, keeping your feet hip-width apart, and distribute your weight equally between both legs. Shift your weight to the right and lift your left foot off the floor. Hold this position as long as you can, aiming for around 30 seconds.
  • Place your hands on your hips, lift your left leg to the side, and bend your leg back at the knee. Hold this for 30 seconds and then return to the starting position.
  • Repeat on the other side. Do three reps on each side and either increase the reps or the time as you feel more comfortable.

Too easy? Try it with your eyes closed.

Single Leg Balance with Ball Toss

Do exactly the same as above but either:

  • throw a tennis ball up in the air and catch it
  • or throw a tennis ball against a wall and catch it

Keep your eyes open at all times for this one!

Exercises to Increase your Core Strength and Balance

I can sense your eyes are going to glaze over when I mention press ups and sit ups but the following program was suggested to me by Vicky Church from VFit. She is a Muay Thai World Champion who knows a thing or two about fitness and balance (as well as kicking people in the head), so when she talks I listen. I have done this myself every other day as part of my recovery from an appendix op but it’s also great to do to keep your core ticking over when we have a flat spell.

Try this cycle (you can see examples of these press ups at builtlean.com):

  • 10 wide press ups (arms straight out from shoulders, elbows at 90°)
  • 10 diamond press ups (both hands make the shape of a diamond)
  • 10 staggered press ups (one arm higher than the other – 5 on each side)
  • 10 tricep press ups (arms tucked in, touching your sides)
  • 10 sit ups

Try a couple of reps of the cycle to start with. Each cycle won’t actually take up too much of your time, probably between 2-5 minutes each depending on fitness, but the benefits are staggering. Well worth it.

To start with it may appear that these press ups are only working your arms and shoulders but by the 80th one you’ll be feeling it in your core too – especially if you keep your back straight throughout!

If you find this easy incorporate a swiss ball into the exercises.

Now Get Cracking!

Core strength and balance go hand in hand together – unfortunately you can’t have one without the other but I promise you that if you do this you will see a noticeable improvement in your balance in a week or two. All of the exercises can be performed without any props other than a tennis ball or a swiss ball, they just need a bit of time and commitment.

I hope this has given you a few ideas to be getting in along with. Let me know how you are doing in the comments section below.

We’re Open! What’s on in 2016.

Tyson Greenaway

That felt like a very long winter.

But now, thankfully, spring is in the air, the sun is shining and the march into summer begins.

The surf school will be opening from 10am to 5pm, seven days a week from Good Friday so you’ll be able to get surfing lessons and surf hire everyday until November.

New surf clobber is arriving every day for the shop including a brand new batch of 4/3mm hire wetsuits so no matter how cold the air temperature is you will be as warm as toast in the sea.

This year we will be stocking leashes and assessories from Ocean & Earth, wetsuits from Quiksilver, Roxy and Gul, as well as our own line of surfboards that have been specifically designed with Cornwall waves in mind – more on these later but they arrive in June and suffice it to say we are delighted with the results.

Become a Surf Coach

We have A.S.I Level 1 Surf coach courses and 1 Level 2 course running over the next few months so there has never been a better time to jump on one, get qualified as a surf instructor and spend the rest of your summer on the beach.

And get paid for it.

International Surfing Day

Put June 21st in your diary now. This year we will be celebrating International Surfing Day by offering surfing lessons with all the proceeds going to a surfing inspired charity called Waves4Water.

These guys deliver filtration systems that are portable, easy to use, easy to pack, and effective to areas that are in desperate need of clean water. One filter can provide 100 people with clean water for up to 5 years and they’ve managed to distribute over 100,000 filters in dozens of countries around the world.

Help us to get a few more water filters where they are needed.

It’s shaping up to be a fantastic 2016 at our surf school, we hope you can join us.

 

 

 

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