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surfing tips

The Surf Rules

Easter Holidays mean crowds. In the water, this can translate to crowded waves. Learn the surf rules and you won’t get into trouble. We teach people to surf. It’s a fantastic job and it’s something we love to do but here’s the downside. The more people who learn to surf, the more surfers are going to be in the water.

The maddening crowds
Locals, holidaymakers, beginners, elite surfers, bodyboarders, belly boarders, longboarders, stand up paddlers, surf skiers, kneeboarders and kayakers all floating like black blobs, gurning and scratching for waves like their lives depended on it. Crowded waves equal short tempers.

The Rules
If you’re relatively new to the sport it’s important that you understand the surfing code of conduct. Even if you’re a seasoned pro, it doesn’t do any harm to remember the rules. Handily, the National Trust have created a Surf Commandments plaque on a stone up at Godrevy car park so if you’re unsure, why not take a look while you check the waves?

10 Surf commandments at Godrevy beach
10 Commandments of Surfing Etiquette – National Trust

Rule 1. Do. Not. Drop. In. Ever.
This is the cardinal sin of surfing. Beginners often paddle and take waves without being aware there is someone else on the wave already. The one closest to the breaking part of the wave or curl HAS priority. Before you go, look left and right and look again and if there is someone on it, pull off, fall off or get out the way. Dropping in doesn’t just ruin the ride for the surfer in question, it can also cause a crash and nothing pisses an experienced surfer off more than a beginner dinging his board. No matter how apologetic you are.

Rule 2. Paddle the right way.
When paddling out to the line-up (where the other surfers are sitting) do NOT paddle in front of someone riding a wave. You must paddle behind them even if it means taking the hit of whitewater that follows. Essentially don’t get in the way of someone surfing along a wave.

The Surfers Code
The Surfers Code

Rule 3. Do. Not. Ditch. Your. Board.
When it’s crowded always keep hold of your board. Letting go of your board, especially if there is any wind, is likely to hit someone or even yourself. When paddling out, if a wall of whitewater is coming either roll with the board, duck dive or hold on to it for dear life. If someone is behind you and you let go and it hits them, well frankly you deserve to get what’s coming!

Rule 4. Don’t hog the waves.
As more and more people are using Stand Up Paddleboards, longboards and surf kayaks it means they can sit further out, stick an oar in and basically catch every little ripple that comes through. It doesn’t mean they should. Give and take, spare a few for the short boarders on the inside. You will earn respect, even if you are sat in a canoe.

Rule 5. Don’t snake people.
If a surfer paddles in front or behind another to get in a position of priority for the oncoming wave it’s called ‘Snaking’. It’s extremely annoying. (Andy Social was a snake and lord only knows what happened to him!) If you’ve been waiting for a wave for a while and then someone snakes you….Arrrghhhh! (Please, don’t do it.)

Rule 6. Be safe in the sea.
Are you safe on a surfboard? Do you know where the rip currents are? Are you aware of where the rocks are? How’s your knowledge of the beach and the tides? Do you know how to get out of a rip if you’re caught in one? If you’re in any doubt of the above then I suggest you book a lesson or surf course with our experienced Surf Instructors. Not only will they look after you and teach you to be competent in the surf, they will take you where it’s not so crowded where you can safely practise your surfing technique.

Room here for everyone
St Ives Bay is a 3-mile long beach. There really are enough waves for everyone here. If you can see it’s crowded at the popular surf spots of Godrevy or Gwithian (generally where there are cafes and parkin) have a little walk or better still hire one of our new fat bikes and head further down the beach to find a less crowded break. It may be a bit smaller but it’s better for learning and you’ll get more waves to yourself.

Ride along Gwithian beach with our new fat bikes
Ride along Gwithian beach with our new fat bikes

Learn the rules, you will be a better surfer for it and you’ll have more fun! That’s what it’s all about after all.

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer

If your hiring some surfboards and wetsuits, or maybe you’ve taken the plunge and bought your own surfboard and wetsuit, then you will be facing a critical question that you will need to answer….

How to Choose the Right Surf Spot for a Beginner Surfer.

There are a few things that you will need to consider before you suit up and run into the surf so here are some tips on how to make the right decision and ensure that your surf session is full of successfully completed rides to the shore and tall tales to be relayed to your mates later on.

Choosing the right location and conditions.

Firstly you need to head to a lifeguarded beach. If there is no lifeguard present at the beach then find one that is, it’s not worth the risk.

Ask for the lifeguard’s recommendations of where the best waves for beginners are. The lifeguard will point you toward the surfing zone of the beach which will be demarcated by the presence of a black and white chequered flag at each end.

The sort of conditions that are ideal for learning to surf are waist-high waves with light winds. At first you will only be going out to waist depth water so if the waves are a bit bigger than waist high it shouldn’t matter too much but if the winds are stronger than 20mph you should consider coming back when the winds are lighter. That’s not to say that it’s impossible when the winds are 20-25mph but it will make it harder. If the winds are stronger than or gusting above 25mph then leave it until the wind has died down.

A lot will depend on the topography of the beach area but as a general rule rocky foreshores are a no-go and a point or bluff will usually have a current running alongside it. Keep an eye out for discoloured water and unusually calm areas of the sea as this might indicate the presence of a rip current. You should avoid rivermouths as well – even small rivers will create a trench where no waves will break and a rip can easily form.

Making sure that you surf in the right conditions now will really improve your experience and make everything so much easier.

If in doubt ask for a lifeguards advice, they will be only too glad to help.

[themedy_columns structure=”50|50″][themedy_col position=”a”]

Surf with a Friend.

Never go surfing alone.

For obvious reasons you are far safer surfing with a friend. Keep an eye on your surfing buddy and also on other surfers. The sea can change very quickly and is totally indifferent to your wellbeing so being aware of yourself and your buddy will keep you both safe.

If you see your buddy or a fellow surfer having difficulty then first, alert the lifeguards and second – as long as you are not endangering yourself – go to their aid.[/themedy_col][themedy_col position=”b”]

 

Surf With a Buddy

[/themedy_col][/themedy_columns]So why alert the lifeguards first? Because its a lot easier to rescue one person than two.

About the lineup – where to go, how to get there, how far out should you go, where are the waves breaking?

So you’re at a safe beach, the conditions are good and you’re itching to get in.

At this point it’s time to take a few moments and look at the line-up. Make a mental note of where the waves are breaking, how often and how far out. For your first couple of surfs you should only be walking out to your waist depth but it’s still worth surveying the line up to leave nothing to chance.

Which wave to go for?

If you have consulted the lifeguard, surveyed the conditions carefully for ten minutes or so and are comfortable with the conditions then you are ready to put your leash on and head into the water.

At this stage any whitewater wave that is breaking in your waist depth of water will be absolutely fine. Literally any of them – don’t overthink it, just go!

The key thing is not to go beyond your depth and, when not standing on your surfboard, always remain with your feet in contact with the seabed.

After your surf?

So you’ve had a good surf and caught loads of waves… well done.

Afterwards make a few mental notes about the conditions. Which type of wave was powerful, which was too weak to surf on, why did some waves double up and other fizzle out to nothing? Use these mental notes to help you choose good waves in the future.

Then do it all again for your next surf.

Simple Ways to Improve Balance for Surfing

A surfer enjoying himself using equipment hired from GAS Surf School Cornwall

Actually a better way to put it would be….

Can I Improve Balance for Surfing.

And the answer is yes. Many people think that balance is one of those things that you either have or you don’t. How many times have you heard that someone has ‘natural balance’?

I heard it just this morning and, once upon a time, people might occasionally say it about me, but in reality it all comes down to practice.

You probably will have heard the 10,000 hour rule that is often attributed to Malcolm Gladwell that suggests there is no such thing as a ‘natural’ at anything and once examined most ‘natural athletes’ have roughly 10,000 hours of practice behind them.

The same theory applies to any physical activity and while most of us won’t be able to spare the 10,000 hours to master a technique, every little helps if you want to improve balance for surfing.

Any exercise that increases your core strength will have a positive effect on your overall fitness and your balance.

So where do you begin? Well…….

Start with a Single Leg Balance.

A single leg balance will help you work on strengthening your lower body and improving overall balance.

  • Stand, keeping your feet hip-width apart, and distribute your weight equally between both legs. Shift your weight to the right and lift your left foot off the floor. Hold this position as long as you can, aiming for around 30 seconds.
  • Place your hands on your hips, lift your left leg to the side, and bend your leg back at the knee. Hold this for 30 seconds and then return to the starting position.
  • Repeat on the other side. Do three reps on each side and either increase the reps or the time as you feel more comfortable.

Too easy? Try it with your eyes closed.

Single Leg Balance with Ball Toss

Do exactly the same as above but either:

  • throw a tennis ball up in the air and catch it
  • or throw a tennis ball against a wall and catch it

Keep your eyes open at all times for this one!

Exercises to Increase your Core Strength and Balance

I can sense your eyes are going to glaze over when I mention press ups and sit ups but the following program was suggested to me by Vicky Church from VFit. She is a Muay Thai World Champion who knows a thing or two about fitness and balance (as well as kicking people in the head), so when she talks I listen. I have done this myself every other day as part of my recovery from an appendix op but it’s also great to do to keep your core ticking over when we have a flat spell.

Try this cycle (you can see examples of these press ups at builtlean.com):

  • 10 wide press ups (arms straight out from shoulders, elbows at 90°)
  • 10 diamond press ups (both hands make the shape of a diamond)
  • 10 staggered press ups (one arm higher than the other – 5 on each side)
  • 10 tricep press ups (arms tucked in, touching your sides)
  • 10 sit ups

Try a couple of reps of the cycle to start with. Each cycle won’t actually take up too much of your time, probably between 2-5 minutes each depending on fitness, but the benefits are staggering. Well worth it.

To start with it may appear that these press ups are only working your arms and shoulders but by the 80th one you’ll be feeling it in your core too – especially if you keep your back straight throughout!

If you find this easy incorporate a swiss ball into the exercises.

Now Get Cracking!

Core strength and balance go hand in hand together – unfortunately you can’t have one without the other but I promise you that if you do this you will see a noticeable improvement in your balance in a week or two. All of the exercises can be performed without any props other than a tennis ball or a swiss ball, they just need a bit of time and commitment.

I hope this has given you a few ideas to be getting in along with. Let me know how you are doing in the comments section below.

How To Protect Your Head When Surfing

If you’ve ever come along for a surf lesson with us you’ll know we are pretty anal when it comes to safety. We see a lot of people glaze over when we start talking about safety but it’s a necessary evil.

But you must protect your head when you are surfing.

On your first lesson with us you will hear us talk about how to protect your head when you wipeout several times. In fact we mention it within the first five minutes of the lesson, before you’ve even got your toes wet, then reinforce it at least a further three times before the lesson is finished.

It’s one of the basics of surf coaching and it’s why we have a great record with safety at the surf school.

So how do you protect your head when you wipeout?

You put one arm over the top of your head and wrap your other arm around the back of your head and neck – simple, but the most effective way of protecting your self from your own or other people surfboards when you are in the water.

So far so good.

Except the other day I just didn’t do it. I guess I just got a bit blasé with the whole thing. The surf was fun, the sun was out and I didn’t have a care in the world.

I caught a wave: nothing special, not very big, nothing to worry about.

And then……

Whack!

Underwater I felt my surfboard belt me right across the crown of my head. I surfaced, pulled my wetsuit hood down and something strange happened.

Everything went red.

Now one of the things about getting a cut in the sea is that it always looks worse than it is. Blood just runs everywhere and it looks really gory but actually it’s only a tiny amount of blood.

This time it looked like there was gallons of the stuff. A mate of mine, Jake, paddled over. Now Jake is prone to understatement so when he said ‘I’m taking you to hospital’ I knew it was a good idea.

A short while later and I had seven stitches in my head and was facing the prospect of at least a week out of the sea.

And all because I didn’t take the advice that is dished out in every single lesson we do.

But I’ve actually learnt three lessons this week.

One: protect your head on every wipeout, no matter how innocuous. You’d be an idiot not to.

Two: always surf with a buddy. If I was surfing on my own then I could have been in some serious trouble.

Three: there are a lot of surfers working in the NHS. At least three doctors and one nurse popped their heads around the curtain of my booth and asked me where I had been surfing, what tide was best and how well it handles a South-Westerly gale!

How to improve your surfing – the easiest way (probably)!

Well, I say ‘easiest way’. It kind of is.

It just requires hours of time, patience, petrol and cash.

Y’see I could give you thousands of tips on how to stand on your surfboard, catch waves and improve your technique and they would all help to a greater or lesser degree.

But what’s the best way to improve your surfing?

In a word – travel.

And I write this from the balcony of a rental apartment in the south of France so you can’t deny that I don’t practise what I preach!

Put simply, just get out and surf somewhere different.

You don’t have to throw yourself into some below sea-level grinders in Hawaii or Tahiti; you will improve your surfing just as much in the beach breaks of the USA and Europe.

And if you’re not lucky enough or have too many responsibilities to get the time to spend a couple of weeks or months surveying a pristine surf break from your hammock while a waiter hands you a post-surf mojito then all is not lost.

In fact you don’t even need to leave the country. Why not try the beach break just around the corner from your local surf spot or the point an hour up the road?

The key thing is to sample new waves and learn how to react to them. It doesn’t matter if you’ve only just started cutting across the green waves, you’re a seasoned pro or a whitewater warrior: nothing will help you to improve your surfing like stepping out of your comfort zone and surfing a different wave.

Even whitewater waves offer new challenges at a different surf spot and will require new skills and techniques to overcome them.

So next time you load your surfboard and wetsuit into the car and hit the road, try somewhere different – it’s the best, and most enjoyable, way to improve your surfing.

And if you do go abroad and still have a rubbish surf?

That mojito will still taste good.

 

 

Get In Touch:

Gwithian Academy of Surfing,
1, Godrevy Towans,
Gwithian,
Hayle,
Cornwall.
TR27 5ED.
Tel: 01736 757579

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