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surfing tips

Dr SurfLove (or how I learned to stop complaining and love lousy surf)

Tyson Greenaway

One of the all-time funniest things that has ever happened at the surf school occurred two years ago during work experience week. We had a young lad, let’s call him Rob, in for a week of work placement from a local school and we were showing him the ropes with regard to dealing with customers and the basics of surf coaching.

Rob was a really good worker and he was a delight to have onboard, but as he lacked seniority in the coaching room he would get the bum jobs – washing wetsuits, making the tea, packing the surfboards away – all of which he did without complaint.

Meanwhile away from the surf school a sub-plot was developing.

My father-in-law was an avid cyclist and had a collection of tandems of varying age and use-ability. He wanted one of them to be sent by courier to London for some friends of his to ride in a charity cycle race. All that had to be done was to wrap the bike in cardboard and the courier would collect it.

Naturally we let Rob package it.

The courier arrived at the allotted time and was dismayed to find that while the frame of the tandem had been wrapped in cardboard he wouldn’t be able to take the bike until every part was completely covered by card or wrapping of some description.

Rules are rules, he said.

Undeterred, Rob, covered every single part of the tandem in accordance with the courier company’s wishes. When the courier returned to pick up the bike he was initially reluctant to take it but he had to concede that Rob had complied with his request.

Rules are rules after all.

The bike was delivered in time for the charity ride and you can see the sterling work that Rob did in the photo opposite.

Now the point of this is not to ridicule Rob or even the jobsworth courier company but to make a point about the barriers and roadblocks that are put up, sometimes by ourselves but often by others, that stop us achieving our goals.

Rob, bless him, overcame the roadblock of company bureaucracy which we all come face to face with at times.

The courier overcame his misgivings and (hopefully) kept his job.

Postage&Packaging

And my father in law never let blindness stop him from cycling (hence the tandems) or running – in fact when he was younger and still had a little bit of eyesight he would use road markings to guide him.

The road markings in the middle of the road – he would run on B-roads in the early morning when there wasn’t much traffic!

He also had a PhD in Physics (Low Temperature Physics and Super-conductivity since you asked) – think how hard the maths and the equations would be when you can only make notes and read them in Braille. He certainly didn’t let any roadblocks, metaphorically or physically, get in his way.

With surfing, especially in colder waters, there are plenty of roadblocks that you can let get in the way if you want to.

Too cold, too windy, tide not right, too much swell, not enough swell and the frankly laughable when you consider the nature of surfing: “….but it’s raining”.

So this weeks tip?

Just get in there. Don’t even bother checking the surf (or if you do don’t look too long, just make sure it’s safe). Suit up and run in there.

If it’s flat have a paddle and work on your fitness & paddling technique.

If it’s onshore and the conditions aren’t great just concentrate on getting the next wave. And the next one. And so on.

And the rain? I promise you, you’re gonna get really wet anyway.

The great advantage of surfing crumby waves is it will often be uncrowded so you end up with a higher wave-count and you will maintain your surf fitness for when the good swells do roll through.

So next time you want to surf but the forecast isn’t too good? Just rock up, suit up and hit the waves.

You might be surprised how much fun lousy surf can be.

How to choose your first surfboard and wetsuit .

Tyson Greenaway

When you’ve got a few surfing lessons under your belt and you are hooked then your thoughts will probably start turning towards getting your own surfboard and wetsuit.

Head into a surf shop and you will likely be met with a bewildering array of surf gear but if you ask for advice most are willing to oblige.

And if they don’t head to one that will. If the surf shop has been there for a few years then they will most likely be able to offer excellent advice and steer you in the right direction but here are a few pointers to get you started.

Wetsuits

Choosing the right wetsuit will depend almost entirely on the climate at the surf where you will predominantly be surfing. Unless you live in the tropics you will be surfing in a wetsuit at some point during the year. For water that is 15-19℃ then a 3/2mm thickness wetsuit will be ideal. For 10-14℃ then a 5/4mm thickness wetsuit will be comfortable. Below 10℃ and 6/4 thickness is what you will using.

As a rough guide you can expect to be wearing neoprene booties as well as a wetsuit in temperatures of less than 15℃ with neoprene hoods and gloves making it more bearable below 12℃. Of course there are some surfers who swear that you won’t need booties unless its at least 8℃ and that a hood is only for when there are chunks of ice in the water. To a degree you will have to make up your own mind but, in Britain for example, it’s not very often that you hear someone complain that it’s too hot.

The main thing to consider is that for every extra bit of neoprene that you wear there will be a drop off in performance – do you want to surf in booties or do you prefer to feel the surfboard underneath your feet (but numb toes)? Only you can decide that.

A key point in deciding on a wetsuit is the ‘fit’ or ‘cut’ of it. Try not to get sucked (or rushed) into buying the latest or most fashionable brand and instead go for the one that fits the best as this will be the warmest – and who knows, it may even be the cheapest. Cut will vary to some extent from brand to brand. For example Xcel tend to fit stockier people better, while O’Neill are often a good choice for those with a more slender physique.

Any little ripple or fold of neoprene when you try it on in the shop will just fill with water in the sea and make you more cumbersome and colder. The wetsuit that fits you like a second skin and follows all of your body contours from ankles to wrist to neck will be the warmest and most comfortable.

Unless it’s too tight of course. And you will know if it is, you won’t need anyone to tell you.

Surfboards

So you’ve got a shiny new wetsuit that fits beautifully and is as warm as toast. Time to go on a surfboard hunt.

When you are starting out remember – Foam is your friend (foam is the stuff at the core of every surfboard).

You want to make everything as easy as possible for those first few sessions and nothing ruins a surf like not being to catch enough waves or a surfboard that’s not buoyant enough to stand up on. That sleek looking surfboard that you’ve spotted on eBay might be cheap and look pretty but unless it’s big, wide and buoyant it will be a nightmare to learn on.

For adult women then 7’6″ to 8ft is recommended. For adult guys then 8ft to 9ft is the way to go. In both cases they should be at least 20” wide, preferably over 22”.

Kids don’t have to be quite as discerning as they have youth, flexibility and agility on their side. Somewhere between 6ft and 7’6” depending on their size should be ample. Again the boards should be around 20” wide or more.

Consider learning on a 100% foam soft surfboard (often called a softboard) before moving onto to a traditional construction fibreglass surfboard as you feel more confident. It is, of course, possible to learn on a fibreglass surfboard but on the rare occasions that a surfboard knocks into you then a soft board, for obvious reasons, is far less painful.

Hopefully this has given you a few pointers on what to look for when choosing your first surfboard and wetsuit but remember to ask for advice wherever you end up buying them. Most people who work in a surf shop live and breathe surfing and will be only too happy to help.

 

How to Paddle Like a World Champion

Tyson Greenaway

There is some interesting stuff about paddling technique in this video. The video was put together by a chap called Rob Case and there are loads more on his Youtube channel. It’s well worth a look if you feel like you are missing out on too many waves or not getting out quick enough between waves.

https://youtu.be/izO0KAhlzGQ

 

If you feel you could use a little help with you paddling or any other surfing techniques then we will be starting up our Surf Clinic from April onwards. If you can’t wait then we can also do Private Coaching for you at any time of the year.

Give us a call on 01736 757579 or hit the Contact Us page.

Surf Clinic

Tyson Greenaway

At the surf academy we often get asked for surf coaching for intermediate surfers – the type of surfer who has progressed from the whitewater and wants to add some style or power to their turns, get more waves and just get more out of their surfing in general.

[Read more…] about Surf Clinic

Surf Tip #8 – How to do a Flowing Lip-Line Re-entry

Tyson Greenaway

After the bottom turn the re-entry is one of the first manoeuvres that most surfers attempt. If you see a nice section coming towards you it’s hard to resist the temptation to rebound of it and it’s a great, dynamic way to finish a wave.

Check out the video below and read on. [Read more…] about Surf Tip #8 – How to do a Flowing Lip-Line Re-entry

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Gwithian Academy of Surfing,
1, Godrevy Towans,
Gwithian,
Hayle,
Cornwall.
TR27 5ED.
Tel: 01736 757579

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